Homeowner guide · Spring service
Sump Pump Maintenance Checklist
Snowmelt and April rain put the sump pump to work in a hurry. A pump that sat idle all winter deserves a check before the thaw, not after the carpet is wet.
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Jump to a section
- Pour-test the pit
- Float, check valve and discharge
- Backup power
- When to replace
Quick checklist
Have these on hand
- Bucket and old towels
- Flashlight or headlamp
- Adjustable wrench and channel-lock pliers
- Rubber gloves
Stop and call when
- Water is coming through a ceiling
- A drain is backing up into the basement
- There is a gas odour: get outside before phoning anyone
- A fitting will not loosen without twisting the pipe behind it
Pour-test the pit
Lift the lid off the sump pit and look inside. Scoop out gravel, silt or debris that might jam the float or plug the intake. Then fill a bucket with water and pour it in slowly until the float lifts.
- The pump should start on its own as the float lifts.
- It should drain the pit quickly and stop cleanly.
- Grinding, rattling, or a motor humming while no water moves, all mean trouble.
If nothing happens, check that the pump is plugged in and that the outlet has power. A tripped GFCI or breaker is a common cause. If the power is fine and the pump still will not start, it needs attention from our sump pump repair crew.
Float, check valve and discharge
The float must move freely. Cords and tethers can tangle against the pit wall, and a float switch that sticks either in the off position or the on position will fail you. Make sure the pump sits level and has not shifted.
Next, look at the check valve on the discharge pipe. It stops water from falling back into the pit after every cycle. A loud thunk when the pump shuts off is normal for some valves; repeated short cycling with water flowing back is not.
Outside, find where the discharge line ends. It should carry water a good distance from the foundation and onto ground that slopes away. Clear any ice, leaves or crushed pipe. Never connect a sump discharge to the sanitary sewer; check with the Town if you are unsure what is permitted on your lot.
Backup power
Spring storms that bring heavy rain often bring power failures too. A battery backup pump, or a water-powered backup where suitable, keeps working when the main pump cannot. Test the backup by unplugging the primary pump and running the bucket test again. Batteries wear out, so note the install date and check the manufacturer's replacement guidance. Our page on battery backup sump pumps explains the options.
When to replace
Sump pumps do not last forever. Signs that yours is near the end include:
- Running constantly even in dry weather.
- Rust, corrosion or a cracked housing.
- Frequent cycling or loud vibration.
- Your memory being unable to place when it was installed.
A planned replacement on a dry afternoon is far easier than an emergency swap during a storm. See sump pump installation, and pair it with our basement flood prevention guide.
Write the date of each test on a strip of masking tape stuck to the pit lid. It sounds old-fashioned, yet that little record answers the question everyone asks during a storm: when did we last check this thing?
Aurora customers often ask
How often does a sump pump need testing?
Twice a year as a minimum, before the spring thaw and before the fall rains. A quick bucket test takes only a few minutes.
Why is my sump pump running when it is not raining?
High groundwater, a failed check valve or a stuck float can all cause it. If it runs constantly, have it looked at.
Can my sump pump drain into the floor drain?
Generally no. Sump discharge should go outside, away from the foundation. Check local rules with the Town of Aurora.