Sump Pump Installation

Do you need a sump

Many Aurora homes built from the 1980s on were constructed with a sump pit tied to the weeping tile around the footings. Older houses often drained their weeping tile straight into the sanitary sewer, a practice municipalities now discourage. You may want a sump if the basement gets wet after heavy rain or snowmelt, if the lot sits low or near a creek such as Tannery Creek, or if you plan to finish the basement and want a dry floor first.

Pedestal or submersible

A pedestal pump keeps its motor up on a column above the pit. It is easy to service and lasts well, but it is louder and the motor sits in the open. A submersible pump sits in the water inside a sealed housing. It is quieter, lets the pit take a tight lid, and handles more volume for its size. For finished basements and family rooms we usually suggest submersible with a sealed, gasketed cover that also keeps soil gas and humidity down.

Check valve and discharge

Every installation needs a check valve on the discharge pipe so water in the line does not fall back into the pit each time the pump shuts off. Without one, the pump short-cycles and wears out early. The discharge should leave the house above grade and empty well away from the foundation, onto a splash pad or into a drainage swale that carries water toward the street. In winter, the last section outside must be able to drain so it does not freeze shut.

High-water alarms

A simple battery-powered alarm with a float that sits slightly above the normal pump-on level gives you warning if the pump fails or cannot keep up. Wi-Fi models send a phone alert, which is worth considering if you travel. Pair it with a battery backup pump for the most protection.

• Pit with a sealed lid
• Primary pump on its own outlet
• Check valve and union for service
• Alarm set above the on level