Water Pressure Problems

Whole house or one fixture

Start by checking several taps. If only one faucet or shower is weak, the cause is local: a clogged aerator, a mineral-packed shower head, a partly closed shutoff under the sink, or a failing cartridge. Unscrew the aerator and look for grit; soak shower heads in vinegar overnight.

If every fixture is weak, look at the main valve to make sure it is fully open, then at the pressure reducing valve if you have one, the service line and the age of the piping.

Pressure reducing valves

Some Aurora streets see high pressure from the municipal system, and many homes have a PRV, which is a bell-shaped brass body just past the main shutoff. Over time the internal spring and diaphragm wear, and the valve can either stick closed, starving the house, or fail open, letting full street pressure through. A valve that hums, or pressure that changes through the day, points to a worn unit. Replacement is usually a short job.

Scale and corrosion

Galvanized steel pipe rusts from the inside, and the buildup slowly closes the opening. Homes still on galvanized supply often have weak flow upstairs and rusty water after a vacation. Hard well water can scale even copper over time, especially in hot lines. In those homes, the lasting fix is replacing the restricted sections or repiping.

Testing pressure

A simple gauge threaded onto a hose bib or laundry tap gives a static pressure reading with nothing running. Many plumbers aim for roughly 50 to 70 psi in a house. Readings well above 80 psi call for a reducing valve or a new one; readings far below 40 psi point to a supply restriction. We also watch the gauge while a tap runs, since a big drop under flow tells a different story than a low static number.