Toilet Installation

Measuring rough-in

Rough-in is the distance from the finished wall behind the toilet to the centre of the drain. Measure from the wall itself, not the baseboard, to the bolts that hold the bowl down. Most homes in Aurora come in at twelve inches. Some older bathrooms and a few tight basement washrooms use ten or fourteen, and buying the wrong size leaves either a gap behind the tank or a toilet that will not sit flat.

While you have the tape out, check the space to either side. Building code calls for clearance from the centre of the toilet to a wall or vanity, and a wider modern bowl can feel cramped in a narrow powder room.

Flange and subfloor

The flange is the ring the toilet bolts to. It needs to be solid, screwed down and close to level with the finished floor. When new tile or vinyl plank has raised the floor, an old flange can end up sitting below it, and a standard wax ring will not seal properly. Spacers or an extended seal solve that.

A broken flange ear, a rusted cast iron ring or a soft spot in the subfloor all need attention before a new toilet goes on. We show you what we find once the old one is lifted, so nothing gets hidden under fresh porcelain.

Low-flow choices

Current toilets use far less water than those from a few decades ago, and the better ones clear the bowl in a single flush. Things worth comparing:

• Flush rating. Independent performance testing is published for many models and is more useful than a store label.
• Trapway size. A wider, fully glazed trapway clogs less.
• Bowl shape. Elongated bowls are more comfortable; round bowls save space.
• Height. Comfort-height models are easier on knees and backs.
• Dual flush. Two buttons, two volumes.

Rebate programs for efficient toilets come and go. Check what the Region or the Town currently offers before you buy rather than counting on one.

The install itself

1. Shut off the supply and drain the old tank and bowl.
2. Remove the old toilet and seal the drain opening.
3. Inspect and clean the flange; repair it if needed.
4. Set the new bowl on a fresh seal with new closet bolts.
5. Mount the tank, connect a new braided supply line and, where needed, a new quarter-turn stop.
6. Flush a few times and look for leaks at every joint.

If you are not sure the old toilet needs replacing, our toilet repair page may point to a cheaper fix. Updating the vanity at the same time? See faucet repair and installation. And for keeping the new bowl flowing, read drain clog prevention.